Jessica Wifall

Scheepjes Festival of Lights CAL: Week 3, Square Motifs

It’s CAL day again!  This week we are making all the squares.  The triangle motif was all about the shape, the square motif is all about the texture.  It is full of back post stitches and popcorn stitches.  Take a moment to read the tips on gauge this week as we now need to make sure that our pieces will fit together properly with the triangles.

The written PDF of the pattern can be found here on the Scheepjes website.

For photos to accompany the pattern jump to the bottom of this post here.

Contents

Getting Started

Scheepjes has made two beautiful official kits for this CAL of Scheepjes Metropolis and Organicon yarns. 

To purchase a kit, you can check for a Scheepjes Retailer in your area, or please consider using my affiliate link below.  Shopping though this link earns me a small commission to support my design work at no additional cost to you. Thank You!

World wide: Color packs in the Scheepjes Amazon Shop

USA: Jimmy Beans Wool Scheepjes Yarn: Organicon Kit / Metropolis Kit

Kits are sold out in many places, you can find more information on yarn that is in the kit and estimates for other scheepjes yarns in this post here.

If you haven’t already, I highly recommend joining the Scheepjes Facebook Groups.  The groups are incredibly friendly and supportive.  There you can share progress photos, get inspiration, and ask for help if needed.

I have also made video tutorials for this CAL that I will be posting for each part on my YouTube Channel.

There will not be a complete photo tutorial for this pattern, but I will provide some supplementary photographs for the trickier bits on the blog post for each piece of the pattern.

I have made videos tutorials for all the parts of this CAL here are the links for this week. There are videos for UK and US terms. I have also tried to make them clear enough visually that it will still be helpful without the sound.

Special Thank you to Fiona Kelly for providing a Dutch Voiceover! Here are the Videos in Dutch.

I also have an introductory video that has tips and tricks for staying organized and a little bit about my inspiration

Introduction and Tips and Trick Video

Introductie, Tips & Tricks – Nederlands

You can subscribe to my channel and turn on notifications to be notified when each video comes out.

Using the Color Placement Chart

When each part of the pattern is released two Colour Placement Tables, one for Metropolis and one for Organicon will be included in the pattern PDF on the last two pages. These table will list the required color number per round for each motif. 

When a motif is completed, I recommend marking it as completed on your color placement table and labeling the motif by pinning a piece of paper with the motif number to the motif.  The motif on the schematic can also be colored in to visually track progress.

Your Color Placement Tables will look slightly different than the one I show in the photo below because I didn’t have the finalized PDF’s when I took this picture.

To assist I have made a Printable PDF of labels for you to use.  I recommend cutting out each group of labels and cutting between each label but leaving them attached until needed so they are easy to find.  When the label is needed it can easily be found and detached to pin on the motif. 

English:

Motif Tags_V1Download

Dutch:

Motief Labels_NL_V2Download

If you accidentally mix up some colors when making your blanket here is my recommendation.  Decide if it’s going to bother you, if it does frog and redo, if not you are just making your blanket special. Just keep in mind that if you use a color somewhere unexpected with the Metropolis kit you may be a little short on that color and need to swap it for a less used color somewhere else.

The Assembly Line Method

Once you are comfortable with the pattern using an “assembly line” method to get through all those motifs can speed things up quite a bit.  This means working the first round a bunch of times, then the second, and so on.  Here is how I like to do this for this pattern. 

  1. Decide how large of a “batch” to work at once, this can be all the motifs or smaller groups of 5-10.  Larger batches can be more efficient but might be less enjoyable because they are more repetitive, and progress is less visible. Play with the size of the batch until you figure out what you prefer.    
  2. Pin the motif labels to the Ball Bands of the yarn used for the first round.  Once the round is complete the pin the label to the motif.  The partial motifs can be put to the side until some, or all the round ones are completed. 
  3. Pin the partial motifs to the next round yarn just like the labels for round one.
  4. Repeat until the motif is complete.   

I find that this method is great for keeping track of color placement without constantly having to refer to the color placement table.  Once the labels are pinned to the yarn, they can be tossed in a basket or bag to crochet in my favorite place or taken with me. 

This system is also flexible, if a round gets boring, take the finished partial motifs and pin them to the next round color and start working those, or even switch between them.  

Gauge

For this project we will not be making a specific gauge swatch, instead we will crochet the first motif and measure it before adjusting. 

Metropolis version: 9cm using a 3mm hook, before blocking

Organicon version: 9cm using a 3mm hook, before blocking

The square is a bit stretcher than the triangle so if your square is a little undersized try giving it a few good tugs around the edges.

The square should be about the same size as two triangles put together but remember that blocking is going to help here so it’s ok if it is not perfect.

If you are concerned about yarn usage weighing your motifs may be reassuring.  My square motifs average 7.3g in Metropolis and 7.6g in Organicon.  If you are under about 8.4g in Metropolis you should have plenty of yarn.  The Organicon Kits has plenty of extra yarn.

More generally, here are my recommendations regarding tension.

  1. Read up on the golden loop, Esther of “is all in a nut shell” has a fantastic blog post and video talking the golden loop.  In summery the golden loop is about getting the width to height ratio of your stitches correct.  If you have trouble matching gauge by changing hook size or have trouble with rippling or puckering in your crochet work start here.   
  2. Find a hook that gives you results that are close enough.  It is more important to have pieces that lay flat, are consistent and fit together than matching exact gauge so don’t stress if you are a little bit smaller or larger than the actual gauge if those goals are achieved.
  3. Aim for consistency, regardless of how close to the actual gauge you are, strive for consistency.  I like to keep my first motif with me when making subsequent motifs then I can occasionally compare to see if they are similar. This doesn’t have to be perfect as crochet has a little stretch and blocking will help.
  4. Compare Fit, for each motif dimensions will be given and after the first one I will provide a comparison of how this should compare to the other motifs.   This blanket is composed of motifs of various shapes thus the relative size of the pieces is important for the blanket to fit together correctly.  For example, one square should be about the size of 2 triangles put together.  If the relative sizes are wildly different there are going to be fit issues.  
  5. Try not to stress too much.  I find that a lot of things affect my tension, for example, the square when anxious is noticeably smaller than the one I made while relaxing.  However, they aren’t different enough to cause a problem and blocking is going to take care of small differences.  

The last thing to talk about with gauge is yarn usage. Larger motifs use up more yarn, however both kits have a bit of buffer, the Organicon kit has a substantial buffer, and the Metropolis kit has about a 15% buffer.  If you do run out of a particular color, I would recommend that you put that motif to the side, some colors will have more remaining than others so you may be able to use the leftovers of a similar color. 

Dealing with Ends

This pattern has a lot of ends, here are some tips to make them less overwhelming. 

Weave in Ends as you go.  Take a moment when finishing each motif or at least every few motifs to take care of the ends before moving on.  This will make the task significantly less daunting. 

Even if you like to save your ends for the end, at the very least I recommend weaving in all the ends before we get to the joining so that they are not in the way.

When possible, crochet over the ends.  To crochet over the ends from the prior round I take a moment to weave the ends in a few places along the back loop when I finish a round.  This makes it easy to work over the ends when the next round is crochet.  The end can be woven through every back loop along a row, just a couple, or even just held in place.  If the ends are making it harder to see the stitches to work in to try weaving through every loop or only 1.

When Not to Crochet Over the Ends   

  • The next round is mostly Post Stitches.  Back and front post stitches go around the post of the stitch instead of through the loops, this means that working through the back loops and crocheting over the ends doesn’t work.
  • The starting tail of a magic circle.  I recommend weaving in the starting tail by spinning around the center a few times to best secure the magic circle and avoid bulk.
  • When the result would be too bulky.  Generally, avoid crocheting over more than one end, if it’s a small round and two ends would overlap only crochet over until the overlap then leave them for later.  I am not always great at following this guideline.
  • The first time through the motif pattern.  Mistakes are more difficult to undo once ends are woven in, so wait until the pattern is more familiar before crocheting over the ends.
  • If it is making things more difficult or confusing.  If trying to work over the ends is proving difficult or causing confusion, then just wait until the motif is completed to weave in the ends.

Special Stitches and Techniques

Here are some of the stitches that will be used in this pattern.

Beginning stitches (beg sts)

In this pattern beginning stitches are used for the first stitch of a round when the yarn is already attached.  For the square motif we will use a UK Beginning Treble Crochet (beg tr) / US Beginning Double Crochet (beg dc) and a Beginning Popcorn Stitch (beg pc).

  • UK Beginning treble crochet (beg tr): 1dc, ch1 (counts as 1 tr)
  • US Beginning Double crochet (beg dc): 1sc, ch1 (counts as 1 dc)
  • Beginning Popcorn (beg pc): see details below

Standing stitches

In this pattern standing stitches are used for the first stitch of a round when a new yarn is used.  For the triangle motif we will use a standing version of htr.  To make a standing stitch make a slip knot on the hook then work the indicated stitch. 

Standing stitches – Alternative Method

I like to use an alternative method of standing stitches for rounds that end with a needle join.   Instead of making a slip knot simply wrap the yarn around the hook {image 1} then work the indicated stitch {image 2}.  Without the slip knot, the top portion of the stitch can be removed and replaced during the needle join.

Needle Join

Cut yarn leaving long tail for weaving in end; lift loop with hook until tail emerges then thread tail onto needle {image 1},

If the round was started with a standing stitch without a slip knot, gently lift and remove the top portion of the standing stitch {image 2}.

Sk next st and insert needle from front to back through both loops of following st {image 3}.

 Insert needle down through st where tail emerged and under back bump through to reverse {image 4}, pulling gently to create false st identical in size

Popcorn stitch

To make a popcorn stitch work UK 4tr (US 4dc) in indicated st/sp, remove loop from hook, insert hook front to back in top of first st, place loop back on hook and draw through st

Please note that a “closing chain” is not included with the stitch, all chains will be written into the pattern.

Beginning Popcorn stitch

To make a beginning popcorn stitch work a UK beg tr (US beg dc) and UK 3tr (US 3dc) in indicated st/sp, remove loop from hook, insert hook front to back in the chain of beg st, place loop back on hook and draw through st

Back Post stitches

Insert hook from back to front to back to go around post of st indicated, work st

Front Post stitches

Insert hook from front to back to front to go around post of st indicated, work st

Supplemental Photos

Please note that I took photos of both the Metropolis and Organicon kits, when an instruction is kit specific, I will show the appropriate kit. However, if a step applies to both kits, I used the images that show that step the best.

Round 1

Beginning UK tr (US dc) in magic ring

Needle Join

Organicon version: DO NOT fasten off, Join with a ss to ch of beg st. Be sure to catch 2 loops of the ch when joining.

Ends Recommendation: Sew in the starting tail by spinning around the center to reinforce the magic ring, weave the finishing tail along some of the back loops and crochet over in the next round.  

Round 2

Metropolis Version: Standing stitch and round completed

Organicon Version: beginning stitch and round completed

Ends Recommendation: The next round is mostly back post stitches so weave both tails in at the bottom of the round or save for after next round. 

Round 3

Don’t fasten off or cut yarn at the end of round 3 for ether kit.

Ends Recommendation: Weave the starting tail along some of the back loops and crochet over in the next round. 

Round 4

Make the beg PC in the next stitch after join, this will be the second BP stitch on a side.

Skip one stitch between each PC, round 4 completed.

Ends Recommendation: Weave in the ends towards the bottom of round 4, popcorn stitches are great for hiding ends. 

Round 5

This round is worked in front of the ch-sps from Round 4

  • Work UK tr (US dc) stitches in the skipped stitches from round 3
  • Work UK FPdc (US FPsc) stitches around the popcorn stitches

Make sure not to accidentally extend or lift your stitches on this round or the square will become too big or may popout a bit in the middle.

Round 5 completed, don’t fasten off or cut yarn for ether kit.

Ends Recommendation: Weave the starting tail along some of the back loops and crochet over in the next round. 

Round 6

First corner of Round 6 and Round 6 completed.

Ends Recommendation: The next round is mostly back post stitches so weave both tails in at the bottom of the round or save for after next round. 

Round 7

First corner of round 7 and first BP stitch.

(I’m sorry I forgot to take a picture of finished round 7)

Ends Recommendation: Weave both tails along some of the back loops and crochet over in the next round. 

Round 8

First corner of Round 8.

Round 8 and motif completed for both versions.

Ends Recommendation: Weave in both tails towards the bottom of round 8

Modifications for a Single Color

If you would like to test gauge in a single color or are making up your own color way and would like to make the motifs in a single color these are the modifications needed to make a solid-colored motif without cutting the yarn.

Round 1: Follow Organicon Finishing instructions

Round 2: sk first UK tr (US dc) after beg st (we will move this to the end of the round), add UK tr (US dc) to last corner (this is the st we moved), ss to join.

Round 3: ch 1 and work the repeat between the “*” 4 times in total, ss to join.

Round 4: ch 1 and make the beg PC in the same st as join, work the repeat between the “*” 4 times in total omitting the last PC, ss to join.

Round 5: ch 1, complete round 5 as written just using a regular st instead of standing to start.

Round 6: sk first UK htr (US hdc) after beg st (we will move this to the end of the round), add UK htr (US hdc) to last corner (this is the st we moved), ss to join.

Round 7: complete round 7 as written just using a regular st instead of standing to start, and join with a ss.

Round 8: complete round 8 as written just using a beg st instead of standing to start.

Happy Crafting!

Support My Work

Thank you for reading my blog, you are supporting my design work just by being here!   Here are some other ways you can support my design work.

  • Follow me on Instagram or Facebook – I post new pattern releases and such on my Instagram feed and Facebook page, following, liking, and commenting will keep you up to date and help other find my design work.
  • Browse my self-published patterns – I have several patterns on Etsy and Ravelry.  My portfolio of designs is not extensive yet, but I am continuing to add new patterns. 
  • Watch my Videos on YouTube– Video tutorials for each part of this CAL will be available on my YouTube channel along with a (very) few other tutorials I have made.  Watching the videos, subscribing to my channel, commenting on and liking the videos will all support my design work. 
  • Affiliate links – Shopping through my links supports me at no additional cost to you as I get a small commission through my affiliates. Scheepjes Amazon Shop, Jimmy Beans Wool, Yarn Addicted and Co on Etsy (US shipping only) 

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Comments

2 responses to “Scheepjes Festival of Lights CAL: Week 3, Square Motifs”

  1. Anne D Avatar
    Anne D

    Hi Jessica, I’m wondering, have squares S4 and S6 accidentally been swapped on the Metropolis color placement chart? The color chart has S4 as a golden yellow and S6 as orange, but the blanket schematic has these squares reversed when I look at your finished blanket pictures.

    Reply
    1. Jessica Wifall Avatar
      Jessica Wifall

      Hi! I have looked into this and what happened is that S4 and S6 got swapped in the sample when it was made, the chart/schematic are true to my original color plan. Personally, I prefer the original color plan, but you may arrange the squares as you like when we get to joining.

      Reply

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