These instructions are written to go with my Squiggle Squares purse but will work for almost any purse that is rectangular: flat or three dimensional. I am a bit rough on my purses so I knew that If I was going to crochet a purse for myself, it would need a lining, and so I wanted to include instructions for how to line the purse.
These instructions will help you to create a simple lining with options for adding a pocket and/or a zipper. To minimize sewing the lining is created with a single rectangle of fabric sewn up the side and in corners if the purse/bag has a bottom.
I have tried to keep these instructions simple and thorough and have included a very basic guide for some of the sewing stitches that will be useful to know at the end of the instructions for reference.
- Relevant Links
- Material and Tools
- Measuring, Calculating, Marking and Cutting
- Adding an Optional Pocket
- Sewing up the Sides
- Corners For Purses/Bag with Dimension
- Sewing In the Lining
- Sewing in the Lining with Stabilizer
- Sewing in Zipper with Lining
- Sewing Stitch Guide
Relevant Links
- Squiggle Square Pattern Introductory Blog
- Purchase the pattern on Ravelry
- Purchase the pattern on Etsy
- Adding a leather Bottom to a Crocheted Purse
Material and Tools
- Finished crocheted Purse, Bag or Pouch
- Fabric: the size of fabric needed will be calculated in the Measuring, Calculations, Marking and Cutting section, but roughly it should be a little bigger than twice the size of your crochet piece plus extra if you want a pocket. I recommend a light to medium weight non stretch fabric such as quilting cotton.
- (Optional) Zipper: if you will be adding a zipper you need a zipper to add that is at least as long as the opening you wish to close with a zipper.
- Thread: sewing thread for sewing together the lining, this can be a color that matches your fabric to blend in the stitches or a contrasting color if you want more decorative stitches though most stitches will not be visible when finished.
- Sewing Needle: Even if you choose to complete most of the lining with a sewing machine you will still need a regular sewing needle to hand sew the lining into your crochet work.
- Tailor’s Chalk: or other means of marking your fabric for cutting and stitching lines.
- Straight Edge Ruler: a quilting ruler is perfect for this job, but a regular ruler will also do, and in a pinch a tape measure and something with a straight edge can be made to work, you just need something to measure and something straight to help you mark out lines for cutting and stitching.
- Iron: I would not recommend trying to tackle any sewing project without an iron. While technically not required your results are almost always going to be much better if you are pressing your fabric at the beginning and your seams between steps.
- Pins, and Scissors: pins to hold the fabric in place while you work and scissors to cut the fabric.
This project can be completed without a sewing machine, I did the lining for the small pouch myself without using one. However, using a sewing machine for the longer straight seams and finishing saves a lot of time.
Measuring, Calculating, Marking and Cutting
The first step to lining your purse, bag, or pouch is to measure the dimensions and calculate the size of the piece of fabric needed before marking and cutting it out.
A Note about Measurement Units: I have written these instructions to work in whichever units of measure you are most comfortable with. However, all my sewing supplies are in imperial units as that is what is available in my area so that is what will be shown in most photos.
Measure your Crocheted Purse, Bag, or Pouch.
- Total Width _____________________________________
- This is the full width of the purse/bag/pouch when flattened.
- Height _____________________________________
- This is the height of the purse/bag/pouch from the bottom edge to top opening.
- Depth _____________________________________
- This is how deep or thick your purse/bag is at the bottom. For a flat pouch or bag this will be zero.
- Bottom Width _____________________________________
- This is the width of the purse/bag/pouch at the bottom, this will be the same as total width for a flat bag/pouch but will be different if the purse/bag has depth.
Check that your Total Width is equal to the Bottom Width plus Depth, if these numbers do not match double check your measurements or go with the larger measurement for total Width.
Determine your seam allowances. Seam allowance is the distance between the fabric edge and the stitching line. I used ½ inch seam allowance for the sides and ¾ inch seam allowance for the top edge. If you are using metric units a 1cm side seam allowance and 2cm top seam allowance would be reasonable.
- Side Seem Allowance: ___________________________
- Top Seem Allowance: ___________________________
Calculate the size and shape of fabric piece. The fabric piece cut will be one contiguous rectangle.
Fabric Width = Width + 2* Side Seam Allowance
Fabric Width is the Width plus 2 times the Side Seam Allowance, one seam allowance for each side
Fabric Length = 2* Height + 2* Top Seam Allowance + Depth
Fabric Length is 2 times the height plus 2 times the top Seam Allowance + depth if not a flat bag/pouch, one height and seam allowance for either side bag.
Prepare your fabric. If appropriate, wash and dry your fabric, then use an iron to press it smooth and flat.
Mark your fabric to measurements. Using tailor’s chalk, a ruler, and your calculations above, mark out a rectangle on your fabric that is the Fabric Width by Fabric length. It may also be helpful to mark the stitch lines on the wrong side of the fabric (this is a seam allowance distance in from the edge of the fabric). Double check your measurements before cutting anything out.
Cut out your lining rectangle. Cut the rectangle marked above out of your fabric.
Adding an Optional Pocket
If you would like to do so this is the time to add an interior pocket to your purse.
Determine your pocket size. This can be any size less than the width and height of the purse/bag/pouch. Add side seam allowances to the pocket width and bottom edge, and top seam allowance to the pocket height.
Note: Unless you wish your pocket to fit something specific this does not have to be too precise. I cut out an 8-inch square to add a pocket that was about 7 x 6.5 inches.
Mark and cut your pocket. On a separate piece of fabric mark out the rectangle for the pocket determined above and mark the seam allowances. Cut out the rectangle.
Fold and press the Seam allowances. Fold under and iron down each side of the pocket half the width of the seam allowances (fold to the marked seam allowance line) {Left image}. Fold under and iron down each side of the pocket again (folding add the marked line), all raw edges are now hidden {right image}.
Finish the top edge of the pocket. Find the top edge of the pocket, this should be the side with a slightly wider folded edge. Sew along the top edge of the pocket once at a distance slightly less than the width of the fold and a second time even closer to the edge.
Tip: if using a sewing machine; leave the ends of the thread long enough to thread on to a needle and secure the ends and pull tails of thread to the wrong side of fabric for a nice finish.
Pin and sew pocket in place. Position the pocket on the right side of the lining, centered, a short distance from the top edge seam allowance. The top/finished edge of the pocket should be next to the top edge of the lining. Pin in place. Sew around the three unfinished sides of the pocket (side, bottom, side) about ¼ of your side seam allowance from the edge, this should encase all raw edges of the pocket sides and bottom so that no raw edges are in the inside or outside of the pocket.
Alternative method: Instead of folding the sides and bottom of the pocket down twice to encase the raw edge they can be folded once, then the pocket can be sewn around all three sides once close to the edge of the pocket and a second time at a distance slightly greater than the width of the fold to encase the raw edge. This method might be preferable if the fabric is thicker to avoid bulk or for a bit sturdier pocket.
Sewing up the Sides
All that is necessary to finish the side seams is to sew the fold the lining in half and sew up to the two sides {diagram below}. However, finishing the side seams will give your lining a bit more durability, and if you are lining a crochet bag that has a more open fabric the raw edges may be visible from the outside. There are many ways to accomplish this including, zig zag stitching, French seam, flat felled seam, and surging. If you have a serger I am going to assume you know how to use it, I have provided a brief explanation of how to do the seam with the other three listed methods below.
Zig Zag Stitch Fold your lining in half, right sides together and sew a straight-line up either side along the marked seam line. Then run a second line of zig zag stitch along the outside of the seam. This prevents fabric in the seam allowance from unraveling and provides a bit of reinforcement.
French seam
Fold your lining in half, Right sides out and sew a straight line a little bit less than half your seam allowance from the edge on either side {left image}. Turn the right sides together and press out the seam with iron. Sew another straight lined up either side along the marked seam line {right image}. This will completely encase your raw edges on the sides preventing unraveling and reinforcing the seam. This is a great choice for lining if you are concerned about the raw edges of the lining showing through holes in crocheted fabric.
Flat Felled Seam Fold your lining in half, right sides together and sew a straight-line up either side along the marked seam line. Then trim half of the seam allowance on one side of each seam {image left}. Fold the untrimmed seam allowance over the trimmed allowance and press with an iron {image right}. Press the fabric open with the folded over seam allowance flat against one side, stitch in place {image bottom}. This will completely encase your raw edges on the sides preventing unraveling and reinforcing the seam. This is my preferred method when working by hand or for lining small pouches where any bulk in the seam allowance will be more noticeable. These pictures show the lining for my small pouch sewn without a machine
Corners For Purses/Bag with Dimension
What you should have at this point is a flat rectangular “bag”. If your purse/bag is not completely flat but has depth this needs to be addressed.
To make the bottom three dimensional (a box instead of flat square), fold one bottom corner of the lining so that the centerline of the bottom lines up with the side seam. Mark a line that is the length of the purse depth at a 45° angle to the side seam and pin in place and sew along the marked line. Repeat on the other bottom corner.
Iron open interior lining. For a tidier finish use a few hand stitches to secure the point of the triangle to the side seam so these excess triangles don’t flap around. Alternatively, you could cut and finish the seam as the other side seams.
Sewing In the Lining
The lining is now finished and just needs to be sewn into place in the crochet work.
- If you are using a Zipper skip this section and go to “Sewing in Zipper with Lining”.
- If you are lining a purse with an added leather bottom that has buckram or a stabilizer skip this section and go to “Sewing in the Lining with Stabilizer”.
Fold over the top seam allowance. Fold over the top edge of the lining at your marked seam allowance, check this by inserting the lining into the pouch/bag and making sure that it is the correct height. The lining should fill the whole bag but not bunch up a lot in there. A little bit of extra lining is ok as the crochet will stretch. Adjust the fold on the top edge of the lining until you are pleased with the height and iron the fold in, add pins if needed.
Position the lining in the purse/bag/pouch. Insert the lining into the purse/bag/pouch and pin in place. Make sure that the corners are lined up.
Sew the lining in place. Use an overhand stitch to sew the very top of the lining to the crochet. Make your stitches pass partway through the crochet so they are not visible from the outside.
Sewing in the Lining with Stabilizer
The lining is now finished and just needs to be sewn into place in the crochet work. In this section we are also sewing in place the Buckram or stabilizer added when adding a leather bottom.
You can add more structure to your purse without a leather bottom by cutting out a rectangle of buckram or other stiff fabric that is (2* Height + Depth) by the Bottom Width. Fold the buckram into the purse/bag/pouch and baste in place.
- If you are using a Zipper skip this section and go to “Sewing in Zipper with Lining”.
- If you are lining a purse without any buckram or a stabilizer, go back to “Sewing in the Lining”.
Fold over the top seam allowance. Fold over the top edge of the lining at your marked seam allowance, check this by inserting the lining into the pouch/bag and making sure that it is the correct height. The lining should fill the whole bag without bunching up. Adjust the fold on the top edge of the lining until you are pleased with the height and iron the fold in, add pins if needed.
Check the Buckram/Stabilizer Positioning. If you have buckram or stabilizer in your purse/bag/pouch from adding a leather bottom or as a stabilizer this is a good time to double check that it is properly positioned and not creating sagging or pulling. If your crochet work Is sagging around the buckram, then it needs to be stretched a bit more over the buckram. If your buckram is bunching up inside the purse at all or pulling the crochet work excessively then the crochet needs to be stretched less over the buckram. If basted in place you may wish to remove basting to check for sagging before pining or re-basting the buckram back in place.
Position the lining in the purse/bag/pouch. Insert the lining into the purse/bag/pouch and pin in place. Make sure that the corners are lined up. If the buckram is hanging out above the lining, trim back the buckram to just below the lining.
Use a back stitch to sew the lining to the buckram and crochet. Make stitches such that they only go part way through the crochet and the thread is not visible on the outside of crochet.
Use an overhand stitch to sew the very top of the lining to the crochet to hide the buckram. Again, make your stitches pass part way through the crochet so they are not visible from the outside. Then remove any remaining basting stitches or pins.
Optional: Finish with a round of slip stitches along the top of the crochet to finish the edge.
Sewing in Zipper with Lining
If you are making a bag/pouch with a zipper and lining, we will sew the zipper to the lining before sewing the lining and zipper in place in the bag. I recommend sewing the zipper by hand, for me the result is much nicer when I do the zipper by hand as I feel it gives me more control on the placement. For this example, I am sewing the lining and zippers in small pouches (I did two as I forgot to take some photos of the first one).
Check that your zipper is the correct length. If it is not the correct length and is a Nylon or plastic zipper you can sew multiple times over and/or around the zipper teeth where you want the zipper to stop, then trim the zipper just after that point.
Fold over the top seam allowance. Fold over the top edge of the lining at your marked seam allowance, check this by inserting the lining into the pouch/bag and making sure that it is the correct height. The lining should fill the whole bag but not bunch up a lot in there. A little bit of extra lining is ok as the crochet will stretch. Adjust the fold on the top edge of the lining until you are pleased with the height and iron the fold in, add pins if needed.
Pin the zipper in place. Remember that the zipper needs to be on the right side out and the lining should have the wrong side out.
Check that the fabric is not too close to the zipper teeth then sew the zipper in place.
Pin the other side of the zipper in place, test that it is lined up by zipping and unzipping.
Sew the zipper in place in the same manner as the first side.
Insert the lining with zipper into the pouch and pin in place, then sew it in place.
You now have a fully lined pouch/bag with a zipper.
These little bags would make great crochet tool holders, or they could be a soft case for glasses or sunglasses.
Sewing Stitch Guide
These are basic instructions for some sewing techniques and stitches that will be helpful to know to complete these instructions. There are a lot of great video tutorials available online if you need more instruction that can be found by searching for the term listed.
Basting, also known as tacking, is using temporary stitches to hold pieces of fabric together. Sew into both layers of fabric with larger stitches that will be easy to remove later. I recommend using a contrasting color thread.
Back Stitch is a strong stitch that forms a continuous line on both sides, it is often used in hand embroidery.
Starting with your thread coming to front of fabric at point B, insert your needle front to back one stitch length back at point A, insert needle back to front two stitch lengths forward at point C. Continue stitching one stitch length backwards on the front of the fabric and two stitch length backwards on the reverse side.
Overhand Stitch is a stitch used for attaching two finished edges together, it is like a whip stitch, but the needle is passed through the fabric diagonally instead of vertically. (You may use a whip stitch instead if you prefer, I think this version is a little tidier)
Starting with your thread coming to the front of the fabric at point A just below the finished edge, insert the needle back to front just behind point A and exit the fabric back to front one stitch length forward at point B.
Happy Crafting!
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Copyright
Copyright © 2024 by Jessica Wifall. All rights reserved.
Please do not sell, redistribute, or edit these instructions in any way. You may sell the finished products but please credit me as the designer of the pattern.
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